Confessions of a Surf Bum

Confessions of a Surf Bum

The ocean is in constant flux, and when you spend a lot of time in it you become like a floating bottle with a message inside; you know you’re somewhere, sense you have a purpose, but you also know that you’re at the mercy of the winds and currents, that...

Aged to Perfection

Task #10 (reading Saltwater Buddha) on my “Endless Summer” list: almost complete. Well, “almost” in the sense that I have 50 pages to go, but I am not quite sure how “reading on the subway” is comparable to “reading in a...