To say the last couple of days have been AMAZING is an understatement. I have made some great friends since I started surfing and I continue to meet and foster new relationships. Pretty much I feel blessed to be surrounded by such wonderful people: family, new and old friends.THANK YOU ALL from the bottom of my heart.
So onward to my ping-ponging and I currently am in Huntington Beach, CA. Growing up in Northern New Jersey and living on the East Coast my whole life, the California-surfer-active lifestyle is so amazing to see. Although NYC has an up-an-coming surf community, you have to seek it to find it. I am like a little kid every time I see a VW bus pass by with a stack of surfboards on top or glance at a guy (or gal) skateboarding down to the beach with his (or her) board. I hope I never lose that excitement of seeing someone else heading out to enjoy the same sport that I have fallen in love with. Seriously, nothing gets better than surfing with a pod of dolphins, which I happened to experience yesterday while surfing at 36th Street in Newport Beach. LOVE.
Well, y’all probably think that since I have been out here all I have been doing is surf and relax on the beach. Although that sounds like a fantastic plan, I actually have been busy helping some friends out, meeting with people in the surf industry, and trying to absorb/learn as much as I can about the surf industry.
This past weekend I was at the Del Mar Boardroom helping out at the Robert August booth. I met Robert down in Costa Rica on one of my surf trips last year and I am honored to call this legend one of my friends. Robert co-starred in the iconic film Endless Summer and is one of the most caring and giving persons that I know. Although Robert know lives in Costa Rica full time, he came up for the long weekend and his booth had a continuos stream of people wanting to talk to him and get posters signed.
OK, since I am running short on time and need to head out to my next meeting, I wanted to share some pictures of this great ride that I am on. And yes, the good thing about flying in a day earlier than expected is being able to go to a Black Keys concert on the night that you thought you were suppose to arrive. Everything happens for a reason, right??
San Francisco on Thursday!