Dog's Life

Back in September when I left my job and NYC, my childhood friend gave me an amazing going away present, a journal. Over the years I have sporadically written my thoughts and ideas in journals, but this gift was different. This journal has a great concept; it is called “One Line A Day: A Five Year Memory Book”. The concept of the journal is that each page has 5 spots to write down your thoughts/ideas/inspirations/recap from that day, and on the same day the next year you will see what happened the prior year, etc.

I started writing in my “One Line a Day” the night before I left NYC for this amazing journey that I am on and every couple of weeks I like to look back and read some of my entries. Not so surprisingly, a lot of my entries are about surfing. I can’t believe how much I have learned about not just the physical nature of this sport, but the mental aspect as well, and how much more that is possible.

Well, over the week that I was sidelined from not being able to get in the water (thankfully only one week, I got back in the water last week), I took some time to reflect on what surfing has taught me so far…here goes…

  • You can do anything that you set your mind to: I wouldn’t be writing this post if I had not decided to act on my crazy idea and leave Corporate America and the Big Apple…
  • Be patient: Back in December, I paddled out for a glass-off, sunset session. For some reason I was not feeling it. There were so many people in the water and my arms were sore. Then all of a sudden I found myself paddling farther out to catch an outside set wave and as a result I had this beautiful ride. In about 30 seconds I went from being cranky to on cloud nine. In other words, wait for the good moments and let the other “stuff”  flow right past you.
  • You are never too old to laugh or make fun of yourself: I love catching a beautiful wave as much as any other surfer, but half of the fun out there for me is being able to hysterically laugh my butt off from a funny wipeout. Gets me every time. There is nothing like a good laugh and a bright smile. 🙂

Getting Barreled

  • Mother Nature is amazing: The gorgeous sunsets and sunrises, the raw and powerful breaking wave, emerald-turqouise clear water, iguanas, monkeys, birds…are all beyond beautiful and just breathtaking.

Green Iguana

Tama Sunset from Hill

Mimicking the clouds

Thanksgiving Costa Rica Style

Pretty Bird

  • Don’t be afraid to take risks: Charging down a head-high + wave is a pretty exhilarating thing…BUT wiping out and going through the washing machine happens, you just gotta shake it off and charge down the next one!
  • Surround yourself with good people and positive energy: Being surrounded by the right people makes all the difference. Weed out the bad ones and feed off the positive energy.
  • Just keep swimming: Everyone is allowed a bad session, just make sure you brush yourself off and take away some lessons and so you can rip it up on the next session!
  • Waking up at 5AM for dawn-patrol is rewarding: You know that saying, “The early-bird gets the worm”??? Well, being the first one to paddle out and having the waves all to yourself (well maybe sharing with a couple other friends) is so worth that early wake-up call.

Dawn PatrolBoat Trip to Nosara

  • Watching a sunset is even better when you are on a surfboard: There is something magical about sitting out in the water on your surfboard, watching the sun go down, catching beautiful waves, and being part of the Mother Nature’s symphony.
  • AND last, but not least: The blissful feeling of pure stoke. For all you non-surfers out there, this is pure elation. Dropping in and riding a beautiful wave never ceases to amaze me….STOKE.

Look Mom, no hands!!

Dropping In

All in all, I feel so blessed. Thank you, thank you, thank you! And here is to the many more lessons to come!


Pura Vida,