Tamarindo, Costa Rica –

I like to longboard – a lot. 99% of the time I can be found surfing the Tamarindo Rivermouth with my 9’4″ longboard. Too much in fact that my 6’2″ “Fun Dip” short board was starting to feel neglected. So this past weekend when I packed up my rental car to visit a couple of surf buddies staying in Playa Guiones two hours South of Tamarindo, I decided to ONLY bring my short board. Almost a week later, I still have not picked up my longboard for a surf session and I have been stoked on riding my short board.


When nothing is going right, surf a left. || Somewhere lost in paradise. Magic Stick by ROBERT AUGUST SURF COMPANY , Mermaid Bikini by MI OLA

So what has gotten into me?! On Monday my friends and I surfed with a surf coach and after our session we reviewed with video analysis. Yes, I knew going into the session that I was privy to have a narrow longboard stance while surfing my short board. But then there is the ugly truth of video analysis Рthe reason why I am not able to complete my backside turns is my narrow stance, etc., etc. Being the self-competitive person that I am, the very next day out in the water I was even more aware of my narrow stance dilemma and started working on moving my front foot forward on the board. AND bada-bing, bada BOOM! There it was, just by moving my front foot a tad forward, my short board game has been turned up a notch. Backside turns and frontside cut backs, Step Gilmore watch out!


She smiled at the ocean because the waves told her story. – r.m. drake

Happy Friday y’all – it’s almost Thanksgiving!!!