My heart races. I feel the rhythm of the wave surge through my body and it tingles with excitement. I close my eyes and I am there, submerged in the ocean dancing with waves; dropping in, feeling the power of the wave, twinkle-toeing, and making butter turns.
The thunder from the waves crashing is my siren song. The offshore wind howling is music to my ears and that woosh sound from my board during takeoff is my jam. I feel the spray from the wave sprinkle my face like tears of joy.
The childlike grin after samba-ing with a wave and the cackling giggle from an awesome wipeout bring out my eight-year old playfulness. Clarity and creativity spark in my place of worship. I am head over heels entranced with Mother Nature’s gift.